Meats and Entrées
RUSSIAN PIROG KULBAK
Dissolve in a pint of tepid salted water, 1 yeast-cake mixed with enough flour to make rather a stiff dough and let it rise until double its size. Add to this 2 eggs and ½ lb. of butter. Knead thoroughly. Put the paste in a warm place and let it rise again to double its size. Roll it out about ½ inch thick and put in a buttered pie dish; cover with cold boiled rice, then thin slices of smoked roe or smoked fish; sprinkle over some pepper and nutmeg. The other half of the dough is to be lapped over the filling and in giving to the Pirog the form of a loaf close the edges with the white of an egg. When closed, spread it over with beaten egg and bread-crumbs. Bake it a light brown.
In 1 tablespoonful of good drippings brown 2 lbs. of round steak (or any good part of the beef). Remove the steak and brown 6 chopped onions in
the same fat. Replace the steak in the casserole, add 1 small clove of garlic, salt, and pepper. Cover over with 1 or 2 slices of bread that have been spread with French mustard. Add 1½ cups of water and cook, closely covered, slowly, 3 or 4 hours. Just before removing from the oven, add 1 small dessert-spoonful of vinegar and I teaspoonful of sugar to the gravy.
BLANQUETTE OF VEAL
Take 3 lbs. of veal, cut it in squares (about 2 inches). As this dish is supposed to be very white, it is sometimes soaked half an hour in tepid water. Put the pieces of veal into a saucepan; cover with water; add a large pinch of salt, let it boil, skim. Add 1 onion stuck with cloves, 1 carrot cut in half, a cupful of white wine, a bouquet of laurel thyme, parsley, and cook half an hour. Strain the meat and save the stock.
With 2 oz. of butter and 2 oz. of flour make a white sauce; moisten it with veal stock, stir over the fire. The sauce must be perfectly smooth and not thick. Add the meat without the vegetables, continue to cook it until the meat is tender. The sauce should be reduced by one half. Thicken at the last moment with 3 yolks of eggs, 1 oz. of
butter, and the juice of a lemon. Arrange the meat on the dish with the sauce.
This dish is sometimes garnished with small round balls of veal made of raw minced veal seasoned with salt, and pepper, boiled about ½ an hour with the other veal, and then fried in butter. The balls should be only as big as marbles.
BLANQUETTE OF CHICKEN
One cold cooked chicken or fowl, 4 fresh mushrooms, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 pint of chicken broth, salt and pepper to taste. Peel the mushrooms, cut them into pieces, and simmer in the broth until tender. Add the chicken sliced into thin delicate pieces. Cook gently until heated when the beaten yolks of eggs should be stirred in gradually. As soon as the sauce is smooth and creamy, season with salt and pepper and a few drops of lemon-juice.
Place in a stewpan 5 or 6 lbs. of the round of beef. Cover with water and allow to simmer until the scum rises. Skim and add a quart of tomatoes (some people like also a clove of garlic), 5 or 6 onions, some stalks of celery, 1 or 2 carrots cut in small pieces, salt, and pepper.
Let it cook slowly closely covered about 5 hours. An hour before serving remove the beef (which is to be placed in a covered dish at the side of the stove) and strain the gravy.
Cook one cup of rice in this gravy. When the rice is cooked replace the beef in the stewpan and warm it.
Add ½ cup grated cheese and 2 tablespoons of butter to the rice and pour around the beef on a platter.
DUCK ST. ALBANS
Roast a fat duck. When cold carve the breast in thin slices. Lay these carefully aside. Break off the breastbone and cover the carcass smoothly with the liver farce. Replace the sliced fillets, using a little of the farce to bind them back into place on the duck. Coat the whole well with half set aspic jelly.
Farce.—1 lb. of calf's liver, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 slice of bacon, a slice of onion, 1 carrot sliced. Fry these carefully and pound in a mortar. Pass through a wire sieve. Then put in a basin and whisk in ½ pint of aspic jelly and a small teacupful of very thick cream. Season with cayenne pepper and salt. Grapefruit and orange salad is served with this.
Bone a raw turkey, spread it flat on a board, season, and cover with good fresh sausage meat. Lay a well-boiled tongue down the centre and 2 long strips of fat bacon or ham, almonds, hard-boiled egg, salt, pepper, and sprinkle over a tablespoonful of brandy. Roll up carefully, taking care the various strips are not displaced. Tie firmly in a greased cloth and sew up. Boil gently 2 hours for a large fowl and 2½ hours for a turkey. When boiled the cloth may need to be tightened a little. Lay a light weight on the top and when quite cold glaze with a meat glaze and then a good coating of half set aspic. Decorate with chopped aspic.
CHICKEN AND CABBAGE
(A dish of Auvergne)
Put about ¼ of a lb. of salt pork, cut in slices, in the bottom of a kettle; when a little melted put in a fowl or a chicken or two partridges stuffed as for roasting. Put in 1 large clove of garlic and 3 large onions sliced, salt and pepper. Dredge with flour, put in a little water, and cover closely. Dredge and baste the fowl every 15 minutes, adding water each time. Have a cabbage ready cut
into four pieces and put in the kettle 1 hour before the fowl is cooked. A fowl will take not less than 3 hours and allow 2 hours for a chicken.
Butter a pie dish, place in the bottom a few slices of fried salt pork and then slices of mutton cut from the leg; on top of this, lay slices of cooked potatoes, season each layer with salt and pepper, minced parsley and onions fried in butter; pour over some clear gravy. Moisten the edge of the dish, lay a narrow band of paste, moisten, and cover the whole with puff-paste, bake in moderate oven 1 hour and 20 minutes.
Chop 1 lb. of round steak or any good part of the beef, season with salt and pepper. Add by degrees with a wooden spoon ¼ lb. of butter. Roll into fat balls and place in a very hot frying pan. Give 3 minutes to each side.
Serve with the following sauce: Mix together 2 tablespoonsful of oil and 1 of butter, 1½ tablespoons of flour, add 2 teaspoonsful of onion juice, 1 teaspoonful of grated horse-radish, ¼ teaspoonful of mixed mustard, salt and pepper, then gradually
1½ cups of stock (one can use water instead), and cook 3 minutes, then take from the fire and add ¼ of a cup of cream and I teaspoonful of lemon-juice.
ANOTHER RUSSIAN METHOD FOR BEEFSTEAKS
Cut the steaks thin, season them with salt and paprika. Colour the steaks in 2 oz. of butter, but they must not be completely cooked. Chop up finely 2 onions, place half of the onions in a casserole that can be sent to table. Arrange the steaks upon it. Sprinkle them with the remainder of the onions. Throw the gravy from the pan, with stock or water added, to allow the steaks to be half covered. Cook in the oven 1 or 2 hours in tightly covered casserole. Before serving pour over 1 cupful of sour cream.
Take away the skin from three lamb kidneys; split them lengthwise in halves; take out the white nerve from the centre, and cut each half into small slices. Put 3 ozs. of oil in a pan, colour in it a small chopped onion, add the sliced kidneys, salt, pepper. Stir with a spoon briskly
over a good fire until all the pieces are equally coloured; sprinkle with a tablespoonful of flour; mix and stir well. Add a cupful of wine and one of gravy, stir until boiling. Cook two minutes longer; taste if well seasoned; at the last add the juice of half a lemon and chopped parsley.
Note.—Mushrooms stewed with the kidneys are an improvement.
Put a good slice of salt pork into a saucepan. When it has fried a little add some chopped parsley root, carrot, onion, and a small clove of garlic.
Joint the fowl and place it in the pan, add salt and pepper. Cook in the oven about one hour, then add 3 or 4 peeled tomatoes with the seeds removed. Continue to add in the pan enough water to baste the fowl frequently. Cook until the fowl is tender and serve with rice to which minced cooked ham or bacon has been added. Pour the gravy in the pan over the chicken.
Soak overnight; in the morning scrub it and trim away any rusty part; wipe dry; cover the ham with
a stiff paste of bread dough an inch thick and lay upside down in a dripping pan with a little water; allow in baking 25 minutes to the pound; baste a few times and keep water in the pan. When a skewer will pierce the thickest part plunge the ham for 1 minute in cold water; remove the crust and outside skin, sprinkle with brown sugar and fine cracker crumbs, and stick with cloves and brown in the oven. Serve with a mustard sauce or white wine sauce if eaten hot.
RILLETTES DE TOURS
Three lbs. shoulder of fresh pork, 3 lbs. cutlets of pork, 1 filet of pork, 2 pork kidneys, 2 lbs. of kidney fat, 1 pint of water, 3 tablespoons of salt, pepper, and 4 onions minced fine with the pork fat. Chop the meat into small dice, mince the fat and kidneys very fine; let all boil gently for 4 hours. About ½ hour before removing from the fire, add 1 teaspoonful of mixed spices and ¼ lb. fresh mushrooms cut in large pieces. Line a mould with half-set aspic; when set, pour in the mixture, pour over more aspic.
This is excellent for a cold supper or can be used as pâté de foie gras, and it may be moulded in buttered dishes without the aspic.
A SERBIAN DISH OF RICE AND MUTTON
Cut 5 onions very fine, and ¼ lb. of lean salt pork, in thin slices. Put these into a deep pot to cook until the onions are a golden brown. Add 2 lbs. of lamb or mutton cut in pieces, add salt, pepper, and 3 pimentos; just cover the meat with water and cook gently about an hour, then add ½ cup of rice; cover tightly and let it stew 20 minutes more.
Put in a basin 2 dessert-spoonfuls of flour, a pinch of salt (or sugar if preferred); break into it 6 whole eggs; beat them up with a pint of milk. Pour this into a buttered dish, bake in a moderate oven. When the eggs have acquired a good colour serve directly. If this dish has been flavoured with salt send grated Parmesan or Gruyère cheese to table with it.
(Tripe à la Poulette)
Cut in filets or small squares 2 lbs. of tripe well boiled. Chop 1 onion finely; put it in a stew-pan
with 1½ ozs. of butter; colour lightly; mix in a good dessert-spoonful of flour; moisten with stock and half a glass of white wine to make a thin sauce; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Add the tripe; cook for an hour; the sauce must be reduced one-half. At the moment of serving thicken the ragoût with two yolks of eggs mixed with the juice of a lemon, 1 oz. of fresh butter, and chopped parsley. Garnish the tripe on the dish with six croûtons of bread cut in shape of half a heart and fried in butter.
Two pounds of tripe well cooked; cut in thin strips, put them in a stew-pan with 2 ozs. of butter, 3 ozs. of chopped mushrooms, salt, pepper, half a tumblerful of good gravy or stock; cover, and let all cook until the liquid is entirely reduced. Spread upon a fireproof dish that has been well buttered, a layer of tripe, a layer of tomato sauce rather thick; sprinkle each layer with grated cheese; finish with the tomato. Sprinkle the top with grated cheese and bread-crumbs, then pour over a little butter melted to oil. Put the dish in the oven for fifteen minutes.
TIMBALE OF PARTRIDGES
Mince the raw flesh of two partridges, season, cut some truffles in small squares, ornament with them a buttered timbale-mould, half fill it with the farce, make a hollow in the centre of it allowing the farce to cover the sides of the mould to the top. Have ready a small ragoût of partridges, with slices of foie gras or truffles; the sauce should be thick, pour it into the empty centre of the mould, cover the whole with the remainder of the farce, then with a buttered paper. Poach the timbale in a covered bain-marie for thirty minutes in boiling water. Turn it upon a dish and pour Madeira sauce round.
After having emptied the hare put aside the liver, carefully separated from the gall, and the blood in a basin; add to it a few drops of vinegar to prevent it curdling. Cut the hare into pieces of medium size; warm 3 ozs. of butter in a stew-pan, add to ¼ lb. of lean bacon cut in dice, colour them in the butter, add 3 ozs. of flour, make it all into a brown thickening, and put in the pieces of hare; moisten with a bottle of red wine and a quart
of stock, salt, and pepper. Stir without leaving it, with a wooden spoon, until it boils; the sauce should cover the meat and not be too thick; add a bouquet of herbs, an onion with cloves in it. Cover the stew-pan and leave it to stew until the hare is tender. A young hare will take from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half, an old one may cook for three hours without becoming tender. The sauce should by this time be reduced to half; take out the onion and herbs, taste if sufficiently seasoned; mix the blood with a teacupful of thick cream, throw over the hare; shake the stew-pan briskly to allow all to mix well, but it must not boil; at the last moment add the liver, which has been sliced and sautéd (shaken) for two minutes in hot butter over the fire. Arrange in an entree dish, pour the sauce over and garnish round with croûtons of fried bread.
Note.—This dish may be rendered more highly flavoured, if desired, by steeping the pieces of hare for some hours in the following marinade or pickle: a bottle of red wine, a cupful of vinegar, salt, pepper, a bouquet of herbs, and an onion stuck with cloves. Leave the hare in this preparation four or five hours, then when the thickening is made, put in the hare with this marinade, then the stock, and finish as above. Small button onions or mushrooms may be added before the hare is tender; if
onions are cooked with it they must be previously boiled for a few minutes.
Six onions, 4 ozs. butter, 2 Indian mangoes, a chicken.
Peel and chop the onions, and put them into a stew-pan with the butter, and mangoes cut into shreds; on the top of these ingredients place the joints of a chicken previously fried in butter, and let this stew over a slow fire for about 1 hour. When done arrange the pieces of chicken on the rice lightly piled in a dish; stir the sauce to mix it, and pour it over the pilau. Serve very hot.
Rice for Pilau.—Wash and parboil for 5 minutes ½ lb. of rice, then drain it free from water; put it into a stew-pan with 2 ozs. of butter, and stir, over the fire until the rice acquires equally in every grain a light fawn colour, then add a ½ pint of stock, cayenne pepper, and a very little curry powder; put the lid on the stew-pan, and set the rice to boil, or rather simmer, very gently over a slow fire till done. Stir it lightly with a fork, to detach the grains. A few raisins added are an improvement.
STUFFED BEEF STEAKS
Take three-quarters of a pound of beef, two ounces of ham, one tablespoon of butter, some bread, some parsley, and a piece of onion. Chop the onion fine and put it in a saucepan with the butter. When it is coloured, put in the parsley and the ham cut up into little pieces, at the same time add the bread cut up into three or four small dice, salt, pepper, and a dash of nutmeg. Mix all together well. Cut the meat into six slices, pound them to flatten out; salt slightly, and when the other ingredients are cooked, put a portion on each slice of meat. Then roll up the meat like sausages, put them on skewers, alternating with a piece of fried bread of the same size. Butter well, roll in fresh bread-crumbs, and broil on the gridiron over a slow fire.
Put in a pan 3 tablespoons of lard; when it is hot add 3 lbs. of sauerkraut.
Place a piece of ribs of pork or a small turkey in the pan and bake in the oven until the meat is cooked.
RIBS OF PORK IN CASSEROLE
Fry 3 sliced onions in 1 tablespoon of lard. Mix this with 1 lb. of rice. Remove the seeds and cut in halves 3 green peppers. Add these to the rice; also 3 or 4 sliced tomatoes and 2 potatoes sliced. Place this rice mixture in a casserole and put on top a piece of ribs of pork of about 2 lbs. Pour in water enough to well cover the rice. Bake in the oven.
SALMIS DE LAPIN
Cut up your rabbit into neat pieces, removing as much of the bone as possible. Have an iron saucepan ready, in which you have put a good quarter of a pound of fat bacon. Put in your pieces of rabbit, which you fry until they become a nice golden brown, and which the French call doré; just before they are this colour add 2 tablespoonsful of rum, or of cognac, according to taste, also 2 échalotes cut up into very small pieces, which you must see do not burn.
For the Gravy.—Take the trimmings of the rabbit, the head, and liver, and pound them all up
in a mortar. When pounded, add a heaping spoonful of flour and pound it in. Now measure out a pint and a half of white ordinary wine (hock), to which you will add a good breakfastcupful of good bouillon, or gravy. Into this put what you have already pounded up and mix it in, then pass it all through a sieve (passoire). When ready pour it over the pieces of rabbit, now that they are become of a golden colour, and let it simmer with them in a covered saucepan by the side of the fire for a good two hours and more, so as to have it very tender. Salt and pepper to taste. Bouquet garni—which means thyme, and if one likes the flavour, a leaf of bay laurel—but for the latter just to let it be in an instant only, as it has such a strong flavour. Many prefer just the thyme, which is more delicate. Half an hour before the rabbit is cooked, add a good spoonful of vinegar; two, should the vinegar not be strong. Add a piece of butter of the size of a walnut whilst it is simmering or stewing by the side of the fire.