Very Old Factory Cheddar is the trade name for well-aged sharp Cheddar. New Factory is just that—mild, young and tractable—too tractable, in fact.
Known as Ferme; Maigre (thin); Fromage à la Pie (nothing to do with apple pie); and Mou (weak). About the same as our cottage cheese.
This is curd only and is nowadays mixed with pepper, lachs, nuts, fruits, almost anything. A very good base for your own fancy spread, or season a slab to fancy and bake it like a hoe cake, but in the oven.
Farmhouse see Herrgårdsost.
Cream cheese of Somerset wrapped in tin foil and boxed in wedges, eight to a box.
Fat cheese see Frontage Gras and Maile Pener.
Fenouil see Tome de Savoie.
Ferme see Farm.
Feuille de Dreux
November to May.
Before our processed and food cheese era some scoundrels in the cheese business over there added animal fats and margarine to skimmed milk to make it pass as whole milk in making cheese. Such adulteration killed the flavor and quality, and no doubt some of the customers. Luckily in America we put down this vicious counterfeiting with pure food laws. But such foreign fats are still stuffed into the skimmed milk of many foreign cheeses. To take the place of the natural butterfat the phony fats are whipped in violently and extra rennet is added to speed up coagulation.
Fin de Siècle
Although this is an "all year" cheese its name dates it back to the years at the close of the nineteenth century.
Fiore di Alpe
Hard; sharp; tangy. Romantically named "Flowers of the Alps."
Ewe's milk. Hard. Table cheese when immature; a condiment when fully cured.
Flandre, Tuile de
A kind of Marolles.
Fleur de Deauville
A type of Brie, in season December to May.
Fleur des Alpes see Bel Paese and Millefiori.
Like Gjedeost, but not so rich because it's made of cow's milk.
Although the name translates Cream Cheese it is made of boiled whey. Similar to Mysost, but fatter.
Soft and fragrant with petals of roses, violets, marigolds and such, delicately mixed in. Since the English are so fond of oriental teas scented with jasmine and other flowers, perhaps they imported the idea of mixing petals with their cheese, since there is no oriental cheese for them to import except bean curd.
A term for cheese made from fodder in seasons when there is no grass. Good fresh grass is the essence of all fine cheese, so silo or barn-fed cows can't give the kind of milk it takes.
A member of the big Pecorino family because it's made of sheep's milk.
Foin, Fromage de see Hay.
Fondu, Vacherin see Vacherin Fondu.
Named after its own royal commune. Soft; fresh cream; smooth; mellow; summer variety.
Fontina Val d'Acosta, Italy
Soft; goat; creamy; with a nutty flavor and delightful aroma.
A favorite all-year product.
Semidry; flaky; nutty; sharp.
Hard; goat; similar to Swiss, but harder and sharper. From the same region as Parmesan.
An unattractive type of processed mixes, presumably with some cheese content to flavor it.
Forez, also called d'Ambert
The process of making this is said to be very crude, and the ripening unusual. The cheeses are cylindrical, ten inches in diameter and six inches high. They are ripened by placing them on the floor of the cellar, covering with dirt, and allowing water to trickle over them. Many are spoiled by the unusual growths of mold and bacteria. The flavor of the best of these is said to resemble Roquefort. (From Bulletin No. 608 of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, to which we are indebted for descriptions of hundreds of varieties in this alphabet.)
Soft, ripened specialty put up in half-pound packages.
Formaggi di Pasta Filata
A group of Italian cheeses made by curdling milk with rennet, warming and fermenting the curd, heating it until it is plastic, drawing it into ropes and then kneading and shaping while hot. Provolone, Caciocavallo and Mozzarella are in this group.
Formaggini, and Formaggini di Lecco
Several small cheeses answer to this name, of which Lecco is typical. A Lombardy dessert cheese measuring 1¼ by two inches, weighing two ounces. It is eaten from the time it is fresh and sweet until it ripens to piquance. Sometimes made of cow and goat milk mixed, with the addition of oil and vinegar, as well as salt, pepper, sugar and cinnamon.
Hard, sharp, mountain-made.
Formaggio Duro (Dry) and Formaggio Tenero see Nostrale.
Fort see Fromage Fort.
Fourme, Cantal, and la Tome
This is a big family in the rich cheese province of Auvergne, where many mountain varieties are baptized after their districts, such as Aubrac, Aurilla, Grand Murol, Rôche and Salers. (See Fourme d'Ambert and Cantal.)
Fourme de Montebrison
This belongs to the Fourme clan and is in season from November to May.
Fourme de Salers see Cantal, which it resembles so closely it is sometimes sold under that name.
Fresa, or Pannedas
A soft, mild and sweet cooked cheese.
Italy and Switzerland
Hard; cooked-curd, Swiss type very similar to Spalen. (See)
Frissche Kaas, Fresh cheese
Dutch generic name for any soft, fresh spring cheese, although some is made in winter, beginning in November.
Friesian see West Friesian.
Fromage à la Creme
I. Sour milk drained and mixed with cream. Eaten with sugar. That of
Gien is a noted produce, and so is d'Isigny.
II. Franche-Comté—fresh sheep milk melted with fresh thick cream,
whipped egg whites and sugar.
III. Morvan—homemade cottage cheese. When milk has soured solid it is
hung in cheesecloth in a cool place to drain, then mixed with a
little fresh milk and served with cream.
IV. When Morvan or other type is put into a heart-shaped wicker basket
for a mold, and marketed in that, it becomes Coeur à la Crème,
heart of cream, to be eaten with sugar.
Fromage à la Pie see Fromage Blanc just below, and Farm
Fromage Bavarois à la Vanille
Dessert cheese sweetened and flavored with vanilla and named after Bavaria where it probably originated.
Soft cream or cottage cheese, called à la Pie, too, suggesting pie à la mode; also Farm from the place it's made. Usually eaten with salt and pepper, in summer only. It is the ascetic version of Fromage à la Crème, usually eaten with salt and pepper and without cream or sugar, except in the Province of Bresse where it is served with cream and called Fromage Blanc à la Crème.
Every milky province has its own Blanc. In Champagne it's made of fresh ewe milk. In Upper Brittany it is named after Nantes and also called Fromage de Curé. Other districts devoted to it are Alsace-Lorraine, Auvergne, Languedoc, and Ile-de-France.
Fromage Bleu see Bleu d'Auvergne.
Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese)
Thionville, Lorraine, France
Although a specialty of Lorraine, this cooked cheese is produced in many places. First it is made with fresh whole cow milk, then pressed and potted. After maturing a while it is de-potted, mixed with milk and egg yolk, re-cooked and re-potted.
Fromage d'Aurigny see Alderney.
Fromage de Bayonne
Made with ewe's milk.
Fromage de Bôite
Soft, mountain-made, in the fall only. Resembles Pont l'Evêque.
Fromage de Bourgogne
Fromage de Chèvre de Chateauroux
A seasonal goat cheese.
Fromage de Curé see Nantais.
Fromage de Fontenay-le Comté
Half goat and half cow milk.
Fromage de Gascony see Castillon.
Fromage de Pau see La Foncée.
Fromage de St. Rémy see Chevrets.
Fromage de Serac
Half and half, cow and goat, from Serac des Allues.
Fromage de Troyes
Two cheeses have this name. (See Barberry and Ervy.)
Fromage de Vache
Another name for Autun.
Fromage de Monsieur Fromage
This Cheese of Mr. Cheese is as exceptional as its name. Its season runs from November to June. It comes wrapped in a green leaf, maybe from a grape vine, suggesting what to drink with it. It is semidry, mildly snappy with a piquant pungence all its own. The playful name suggests the celebrated dish, Poulette de Madame Poulet, Chick of Mrs. Chicken.
Several cooked cheeses are named Fort (strong) chiefly in the department of Aisne. Well-drained curd is melted, poured into a cloth and pressed, then buried in dry ashes to remove any whey left. After being fermented eight to ten days it is grated, mixed with butter, salt, pepper, wine, juniper berries, butter and other things, before fermenting some more.
Similar extra-strong cheeses are the one in Lorraine called Fondue and Fromagère of eastern France, classed as the strongest cheeses in all France.
Fort No. I: That of Flanders, potted with juniper berries, as the gin of this section is flavored, plus pepper, salt and white wine.
Fort No. II: That from Franche-Comté Small dry goat cheeses pounded and potted with thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy. (See Hazebrook.)
Fort No. III: From Provence, also called Cachat d'Entrechaux. In production from May to November. Semihard, sheep milk, mixed with brandy, white wine, strong herbs and seasonings and well marinated.
Fromage Gras (fat cheese)
Soft, round, fat ball called tête de mort, "death's head." Winter Brie is also called Gras but there is no relation. This macabre name incited Victor Meusy to these lines:
Les gens à l'humeur morose
Prennent la Tête-de-Mort.
People of a morose disposition
Take the Death's Head.
Any soft cheese.
Fromage Piquant see Remoudon.
Fromagère see Canquillote.
Fromages de Chèvre
Small, dried goat-milkers.
Also known as breakfast and lunch cheese. Small rounds two-and-a-half to three inches in diameter. Limburger type. Cheeses on which many Germans and Americans break their fast.
Sheep's-milker similar to Brinza.
Germany and Switzerland
A general name for goat's milk cheese. Usually a small cylinder three inches in diameter and an inch-and-a-half thick, weighing up to a half pound. In making, the curds are set on a straw mat in molds, for the whey to run away. They are salted and turned after two days to salt the other side. They ripen in three weeks with a very pleasing flavor.
Hard, golden-brown, sour-milker. After being pressed it is turned daily for fourteen days and then packed in a chest with wet straw. So far as we are concerned it can stay there. The color all the way through is tobacco-brown and the taste, too. It has been compared to medicine, chewing tobacco, petrified Limburger, and worse. In his Encyclopedia of Food Artemas Ward says that in Gammelost the ferments absorb so much of the curd that "in consequence, instead of eating cheese flavored by fungi, one is practically eating fungi flavored with cheese."
Soft, creamy, fermented. A truly fine product made in the resort town on Gardasee where d'Annunzio retired. It is one of those luscious little ones exported in tin foil to America, and edible, including the moldy crust that could hardly be called a rind.
Cream cheese with some greens or vegetables mixed in.
A processed Cheddar type flavored with garlic.
A strong processed Cheddar put up to look like links of sausage, nobody knows why.
Gascony, Fromage de see Castillon.
Soft, cylinder weighing about five pounds and resembling Port-Salut.
A good Alpine cheese whether made of sheep, goat or cow milk.
A factory cheese turned out in small quantities. The color is deep yellow and it resembles a Baby Gouda in every way, down to the weight
Gérardmer, de see Récollet
German-American adopted types
Bierkäse Delikat Grinnen Hand Harzkäse Kümmelkäse Koppen Lager Liederkranz Mein Kaese Münster Old Heidelberg Schafkäse (sheep) Silesian Stein Tilsit Weisslack (piquant like Bavarian Allgäuer)
Semihard: cylinders up to eleven pounds; brick-red rind; like Münster, but larger. Strong, fragrant and flavorsome, sometimes with aniseed. It stands high at home, where it is in season from October to April.
Cream cheese like Neufchâtel, long made by Maison Gervais, near Paris. Sold in tiny tin-foil squares not much larger than old-time yeast. Like Petit Suisse, it makes a perfect luncheon dessert with honey.
Gesundheitkäse, Holsteiner see Holstein Health.
Soft; goat; whey; sweet.
Pays de Gex, France
Semihard; skim milk; blue-veined. A "little" Roquefort in season from November to May.
A very special type marbled with rich milks of cow, goat and sheep, mixed. A full-flavored ambassador of the big international Blues family, that are green in spite of their name.
Gien see Fromage à la Crème.
Hard; mild, made from skimmed cow's milk.
A traditional chocolate-colored companion piece to Gammelost, but made with goat's milk.
The brand name of a cone of Sapsago. (See.)
Glattkäse, or Gelbkäse
Smooth cheese or yellow cheese. A classification of sour-milkers that includes Olmützer Quargel.
Cloire des Montagnes see Damen.
There are two types:
I. Double, the better of the two Gloucesters, is eaten only after six
months of ripening. "It has a pronounced, but mellow, delicacy of
flavor...the tiniest morsel being pregnant with savour. To measure
its refinement, it can undergo the same comparison as that we apply
to vintage wines. Begin with a small piece of Red Cheshire. If you
then pass to a morsel of Double Gloucester, you will find that the
praises accorded to the latter have been no whit exaggerated."
A Concise Encyclopedia of Gastronomy, by André L. Simon.
II. Single. By way of comparison, the spring and summer Single Gloucester
ripens in two months and is not as big as its "large grindstone"
brother. And neither is it "glorified Cheshire." It is mild and
"as different in qualify of flavour as a young and crisp wine is
from an old vintage."
West Prussia, Germany
A common, undistinguished cottage cheese.
Season, all year.
A frank and fair name for a semihard, brittle mouthful of flavor. Every country has its goat specialties. In Norway the milk is boiled dry, then fresh milk or cream added. In Czechoslovakia the peasants smoke the cheese up the kitchen chimney. No matter how you slice it, goat cheese is always notable or noble.
Golden in color and rich in taste. Bland, as American taste demands. Like Bel Paese but not so full-flavored and a bit sweet. A good and deservedly popular cheese none the less, easily recognized by its red rind.
Usually made from cow's milk, but sometimes from goat's. Milk is curdled with rennet and condensed by heating until it has a butter-like consistency. (See Mysost.)
Besides the standard type exported to us there is White Gorgonzola, little known outside Italy where it is enjoyed by local caseophiles, who like it put up in crocks with brandy, too.
The same semihard good Gouda, but made with kosher rennet. It is a bit more mellow than most and, like all kosher products, is stamped by the Jewish authorities who prepare it.
Hard, dry, Italian type for grating. Like all fine Argentine cheeses the milk of pedigreed herds fed on prime pampas grass distinguishes Goya from lesser Parmesan types, even back in Italy.
It is interesting that the nitrate in Chilean soil makes their wines the best in America, and the richness of Argentine milk does the same for their cheeses, most of which are Italian imitations and some of which excel the originals.
Soft, similar to Demi-sel, comes in round and flat forms about ¼ pound in weight. Those shaped like Bondons resemble corks about ¾ of an inch thick and four inches long.
Another name for Parmesan. From "grains", the size of big shot, that the curd is cut into.
The same hard type for grating, named after its origin in Lombardy.
A brand of Parmesan type made near Reggio and widely imitated, not only in Lombardy and Mantua, but also in the Argentine where it goes by a pet name of its own—Regianito.
Grande Bornand, la
A luscious half-dried sheep's milker.
Granular curd see Stirred curd.
Gras, or Velvet Kaas
Named from its butterfat content and called "Moors Head", Tête de Maure, in France, from its shape and size. The same is true of Fromage de Gras in France, called Tête de Mort, "Death's Head". Gras is also the popular name for Brie that's made in the autumn in France and sold from November to May. (See Brie.)
Goat milk named, as so many are, from the place it is made.
A luscious half-dried sheep's milker.
Medium-sharp, splendid White Cheddar from Green Bay, Wisconsin, the Limburger county.
Germany and Austrian Tyrol
Semisoft; sour skim milk with salty flavor from curing in brine bath. Named from the gray color that pervades the entire cheese when ripe. It has a very pleasant taste.
Güssing, or Land-l-kas
Similar to Brick. Skim milk. Weight between four and eight pounds.
Habas see Caille.
Hablé Crème Chantilly
Soft ripened dessert cheese made from pasteurized cream by the old Walla Creamery. Put up in five-ounce wedge-shaped boxes for export and sold for a high price, well over two dollars a pound, in fancy big city groceries. Truly an aristocrat of cheeses to compare with the finest French Brie or Camembert.
Harz Mountains, Germany
Tiny hand cheese. Probably the world's smallest soft cheese, varying from 2½ inches by 1½ down to ¼ by 1½. Packed in little boxes, a dozen together, rubbing rinds, as close as sardines. And like Harz canaries, they thrive on seeds, chiefly caraway.
Port-Salut type from the Trappist monastery at Harzé.
Limburger type. Disk-shaped.
Hay, or Fromage au Foin
A skim-milker resembling "a poor grade of Livarot." Nothing to write home about, except that it is ripened on new-mown hay.
There are two kinds:
I. Flemish; a Fromage Fort type with white wine, juniper, salt and
pepper. Excessively strong for bland American tasters.
II. Franche-Comté, France; small dry goat's milker, pounded, potted and
marinated in a mixture of thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy.
Four cheeses are called Head:
The French Death's Head.
Swiss Monk's Head.
Dutch Cat's Head.
There's headcheese besides but that's made of a pig's head and is only a cheese by discourtesy.
Health see Holstein.
Named from a valley full of rich herbes for grazing.
Cheddar type; nearly white.
Herrgårdsost, Farm House or Manor House
West Gothland and Jamtland, Sweden
Hard Emmentaler type in two qualities: full cream and half cream. Weighs 25 to 40 pounds. It is the most popular cheese in all Sweden and the best is from West Gothland and Jutland.
Herrgårdstyp see Hushållsost.
Soft; made in cubes and peppered with herbes such as tarragon, parsley and chives. It flourishes from November to May and comes in three qualities: extra cream, cream, and part skim milk.
Good smoke is often wasted on bad cheese.
Hohenburg see Box No. II.
Soft; part skimmed milk; half-pound cylinders. (See Box No. I.)
Soybean cheese, developed by vegetable rennet. Exported in jars.
Hoja see Queso de.
Imitation Dutch Goudas and Edams, chiefly from Neukirchen in Holstein.
Holstein Dairy see Leather.
Holsteiner, or Old Holsteiner
Eaten best when old, with butter, or in the North, with dripping.
Holstein Health, or Holsteiner Gesundheitkäse
Sour-milk curd pressed hard and then cooked in a tin kettle with a little cream and salt. When mixed and melted it is poured into half-pound molds and cooled.
Holstein Skim Milk or Holstein Magerkäse
Skim-milker colored with saffron. Its name, "thin cheese," tells all.
Small, one inch by 2½ inches, packed in hops to ripen. An ideal beer cheese, loaded with lupulin.
Hard; goat; brittle; sharp; supposed to have been made first by the Hopi Indians out west where it's still at home.
An old cream cheese brand in Redditch where Worcestershire sauce originated.
Not made of mare's milk, but the nickname for Caciocavallo because of the horse's head used to trademark the first edition of it.
Brand name of one of those mild little red Baby Goudas that make you say "Ho-hum."
Hushållsost, Household Cheese
Popular in three types: Popular in three types:
A strong variety of Gjetost, little known and less liked outside of Scandinavia.
In Letters from Iceland, W.H. Auden says: "The ordinary cheese is like a strong Dutch and good. There is also a brown sweet cheese, like the Norwegian." Doubtless the latter is Gjetost.
A hand cheese.
Ilha, Queijo de
Semihard "Cheese of the Isle," largely exported to mother Portugal, measuring about a foot across and four inches high. The one word, Ilha, Isle, covers the several Azorian Islands whose names, such as Pico, Peak, and Terceiro, Third, are sometimes added to their cheeses.
Impérial, Ancien see Ancien.
Potted Cheddar; snappy; perhaps named after the famous French Ancien Impérial.
Very sharp; white; cooked; spiced; formed into large round "heads" from fifteen to twenty pounds. See Majocchino, a kind made with the three milks, goat, sheep and cow, and enriched with olive oil besides.
Irish Cheddar and Irish Stilton are fairly ordinary imitations named after their native places of manufacture: Ardagh, Galtee, Whitehorn, Three Counties, etc.
Full name Fromage à la Crème d'Isigny. (See.) Cream cheese. The American cheese of this name never amounted to much. It was an attempt to imitate Camembert in the Gay Nineties, but it turned out to be closer to Limburger.
In France there is also Crème d'Isigny, thick fresh cream that's as famous as England's Devonshire and comes as close to being cheese as any cream can.
Island of Orléans
This soft, full-flavored cheese was doubtless brought from France by early emigrés, for it has been made since 1869 on the Orléans Island in the St. Lawrence River near Quebec. It is known by its French name, Le Fromage Raffiné de l'Ile d'Orléans, and lives up to the name "refined."
Jack see Monterey.
Cow and goat milk mixed in a fine Tyrolean product, as all mountain cheese are. Twenty inches in diameter and four inches high, it weighs in at forty-five pounds with the rind on.
A superior Caillebotte, flavored with rum, orange-flower water or, uniquely, black coffee.
Soft and ladylike as its name suggests. Put up in small cylindrical packages.
Jura Bleu, or Septmoncel
Hard: blue-veined; sharp; tangy.
Flemish name for the French Boule de Lille.
Same as Italian Caciocavallo.
This was an imperial cheese in the days of the kaisers and is still made under that once awesome name. Now it's just a jolly old mellow, yellow container of tang.
Kajmar, or Serbian Butter
Serbia and Turkey
Cream cheese, soft and bland when young but ages to a tang between that of any goat's-milker and Roquefort.
Nutty and tangy.
A pickled cheese, similar to Domiati.
Semihard; mellow; for grating and seasoning.
Soft; caraway-seeded; comes in smallish packages.
Soft, white, somewhat stringy cheese named cheese.
A good imitation of Italian Caciocavallo.
Kasher, or Caher, Penner
Hard; white; sharp.
Bulgaria and the Balkans
An all-purpose goat's milk, Parmesan type, eaten sliced when young, grated when old. An attempt to imitate it in Chicago failed. It is sold in Near East quarters in New York, Washington and all big American cities.
Identical with Italian Caciocavallo, widely imitated, and well, in Greece, Yugoslavia, Bulgaria, Transylvania and neighboring lands. As popular as Cheddar in England, Canada and U.S.A.
Hard; ewe's milk, usually.
Just another version of the international Caciocavallo.
Katzenkopf, Cat's Head
Another name for Edam.
Widely advertised processed cheese food.
A hearty cheese that's in season all the year around.
Yugoslavia, Greece and Syria
Both of these hard, grating cheeses are made from either goat's or ewe's milk and named after their shape, resembling a Greek hat, or Kefalo.
King Christian IX
Sharp with caraway. Popular with everybody.
U.S.A, near Ithaca, N.Y. The Rutherfordites or Jehovah's Witnesses make Brick, Limburger and Münster that are said to be most delectable by those mortals lucky enough to get into the Kingdom Farm. Unfortunately their cheese is not available elsewhere.
Kirgischerkäse see Krutt.
Hard; skim; sharp; tangy.
Klatschkäse, Gossip Cheese
A rich "ladies' cheese" corresponding to Damen; both designed to promote the flow of gossip in afternoon Kaffee-klatsches in the Konditories.
Kloster, Kloster Käse
Soft; ripe; finger-shaped, one by one by four inches. In Munich this was, and perhaps still is, carried by brew masters on their tasting tours "to bring out the excellence of a freshly broached tun." Named from being made by monks in early cloisters, down to this day.
Cooked white dessert cheese. Since it is salt-free it is recommended for diets.
This translates "cooked cheese."
Semisoft, cooked and smoked. Bland flavor.
Sheep; rectangular four-pounder, 8½ by five by three inches. One of those college-educated cheeses turned out by the students and professors at the Agricultural School of Transylvania.
A Trappist Port-Salut imitation made with water-buffalo milk, as are so many of the world's fine cheeses.
Spiked with caraway seeds and named after them.
A regal name for a German imitation of Bel Paese.
Blue-mold cheese with sharp, peppery flavor.
Koppen, Cup, or Bauden
Semihard; goat; made in a cup-shaped mold that gives both its shape and name. Small, three to four ounces; sharp; pungent; somewhat smoky. Imitated in U.S.A. in half-pound packages.
Semisoft; mellow; cured in brine.
This cheese appears in many countries under several names. Similar to Limburger, but eaten fresh. It is stamped genuine by Jewish authorities, for the use of religious persons. (See Gouda, Kosher.)
Soft-paste herb cheese put up in a tube by German Brazilians near the Argentine border. A rich, full-flavored adaptation of Swiss Krauterkäse even though it is processed.
Kreuterkäse, Herb Cheese
Hard, grating cheese flavored with herbs; like Sapsago or Grunkäse.
Krutt, or Kirgischerkäse
A cheese turned out en route by nomadic tribes in the Asiatic Steppes, from sour skim milk of goat, sheep, cow or camel. The salted and pressed curd is made into small balls and dried in the sun.
Soft, ripe, and chiefly interesting because of its name, Cow Creek, where it is made.
This is Bondost with caraway added.
Imitation of the Scandinavian, with small production in Wisconsin where so many Swedes and Norwegians make their home and their ost.
Kümmel, Leyden, or Leidsche Kaas
Caraway-seeded and named.
Germany and U.S.A.
Semihard; sharp with caraway. Milwaukee Kümmelkäse has made a name for itself as a nibble most suitable with most drinks, from beer to imported kümmel liqueur.
La Foncée, or Fromage de Pau
Semidry and mellow. While lager means merely "to store," there is more than a subtle suggestion of lager beer here.
Laguiole, Fromage de, and Guiole
An ancient Cantal type said to have flourished since the Roman occupation. Many consider Laguiole superior to Cantal. It is in full season from November to May.
Lamothe-Bougon, La Mothe St. Heray
Goat cheese made from May to November.
Lancashire, or Lancaster
White; crumbly; sharp; a good Welsh Rabbit cheese if you can get it. It is more like Cheshire than Cheddar. This most popular variety in the north of England is turned out best at Fylde, near the Irish Sea. It is a curiosity in manufacture, for often the curds used are of different ages, and this is accountable for a loose, friable texture. Deep orange in color.
Land-l-kas, or Güssing
Skim-milker, similar to U.S. Brick. Square loaves, four to eight pounds.
A Colorado Blue with an excellent reputation, though it can hardly compete with Roquefort.
Semihard; fermented whole milk; farm-made; full-flavored, high-smelling Limburger type, similar to Maroilles. Ancient of days, said to have been made since the time of the Merovingian kings. Cylindrical, five by eight inches, they weigh one and a half to two pounds. Consumed mostly at home.
Reindeer milk. Resembles hard Swiss. Of unusual shape, both round and flat, so a cross-section looks like a dumbbell with angular ends.
Soft; creamy; mellow, made and named after the North Mexico city.
A kind of Maroilles.
Trade name for a soft, water-buffalo product as creamy as Camembert.
Made from November to July.
Leaf see Tschil.
Leather, Leder, or Holstein Dairy
A skim-milker with five to ten percent buttermilk, all from the great milch cows up near Denmark in Schleswig-Holstein. A technical point in its making is that it's "broken up with a harp or a stirring stick and stirred with a Danish stirrer."
Dessert cottage cheese often served with yogurt.
Lecco, Formaggini di
Soft; cow or goat; round dessert variety; representative of a cheese family as big as the human family of most Italians.
Lees see Appenzeller, Festive, No. II.
Half-dried; small; salted; peppered and sharp. The salt and pepper make it unusual, though not as peppery as Italian Pepato.
Hard; shallow; flat millstone of Cheddar-like cheese weighing forty pounds. Dark orange and mild to red and strong, according to age. With Wiltshire and Warwickshire it belongs to the Derbyshire type.
An ancient saying is: "Leicester cheese and water cress were just made for each other."
Leidsche Kaas see Leyden.
A kind of Pecorino.
Notable because it's a natural cheese in a mob of modern processed.
Goat; in season from February to September and not eaten in fall or winter months.
Curious because the sheep's milk that makes it is milked directly into a sack of skin. It is made in the usual way, rennet added, curd broken up, whey drained off, curd put into forms and pressed lightly. But after that it is wrapped in leaves and ropes of grass. After curing two weeks in the leaves, they are discarded, the cheese salted and wrapped up in leaves again for another ripening period.
The use of a skin sack again points the association of cheese and wine in a region where wine is still drunk from skin bags with nozzles, as in many wild and mountainous parts.
Les Petits Bressans
Small goat cheeses named from food-famous Bresse, of the plump pullets, and often stimulated with brandy before being wrapped in fresh vine leaves, like Les Petits Banons.
Les Petits Fromages see Petits Fromages and Thiviers.
Name given to two entirely different varieties:
I. Vacherin à la Main
II. Vacherin Fondu. (See Vacherin.)
A goat cheese in season from May to December.
Leyden, Komijne Kaas, Caraway Cheese
Semihard, tangy with caraway. Similar Delft. There are two kinds of Leyden that might be called Farm Fat and Factory Thin, for those made on the farms contain 30 to 35% fat, against 20% in the factory product.
Cream cheese that keeps two to three weeks. This is in England, where there is much less refrigeration than in the U.S.A., and that's a big break for most natural cheeses.
Semisoft; aromatic; sharp.
Lipta, Liptauer, Liptoiu
A classic mixture with condiments, especially the great peppers from which the world's best paprika is made. Liptauer is the regional name for Brinza, as well, and it's made in the same manner, of sheep milk and sometimes cow. Salty and spready, somewhat oily, as most sheep-milkers are. A fairly sharp taste with a suggestion of sour milk. It is sold in various containers and known as "pickled cheese."
Soft; sheep; white; mild and milky taste. A close relative of both Liptauer and Brinza.
Processed cheese with a cute name, wrapped up both plain and smoky, to "slice and serve for cheese trays, mash or whip for spreading," but no matter how you slice, mash and whip it, it's still processed.
Soft paste, colored with annatto-brown or deep red (also, uncommonly, fresh and white). It has the advantage over Camembert, made in the same region, in that it may be manufactured during the summer months when skim milk is plentiful and cheap. It is formed in cylinders, six by two inches, and ripened several months in the even temperature of caves, to be eaten at its best only in January, February and March. By June and afterward it should be avoided. Similar to Mignot II. Early in the process of making, after ripening ten to twelve days, the cheeses are wrapped in fresh laiche leaves, both to give flavor and help hold in the ammonia and other essentials for making a strong, piquant Livarot.
A popular hand cheese. A most unusual variety because the cheese itself is red, not the rind.
A brand of Pecorino differing slightly from Bomano Pecorino.
Lodigiano, or Lombardo
Sharp; fragrant; sometimes slightly bitter; yellow. Cylindrical; surface colored dark and oiled. Used for grating. Similar to Parmesan but not as fine in quality.
This fine American Cheddar was named from its resemblance to the long horn of a popular milking breed of cattle, or just from the Longhorn breed of cow that furnished the makings.
Hard; small; delicate; unique because it's seasoned with pistachio nuts besides salt and pepper. Eaten while quite young, in two-ounce portions that bring a very high price.
Semisoft and tangy dessert cheese. The opposite of Limburger because it has no odor.
Germany and U.S.A.
The same as Breakfast and Frühstück. A Limburger type of eye-opener.
Swiss type; saffron-colored; made in a copper kettle; not as strong as Limburger, or as mild as Emmentaler, yet piquant and aromatic, with a character of its own.
Tiny tin-foiled type of Liederkranz. A mild, bland, would-be Camembert.